Kittawa Lodge, King Island, Tasmania, Australia
The Roaring Forties trade winds wrap around the globe below 40 degrees south, streaming across the great oceans of the world. The 40th parallel south crosses just a few land masses in its journey – Patagonia in South America, New Zealand near Hawke’s Bay, and two islands in Australia’s Bass Strait – King Island and Flinders Island. On YOLO Traveller’s recent trip to Tasmania, both King Island and Flinders Island were on the radar, for their wild idyllic scenery, their bountiful natural produce and their burgeoning food scene. But it was King Island’s stunning Kittawa Lodge that tipped us in favour of the incredible King Island.
Kittawa Lodge is the brainchild and labour of love of two former Sydney professionals –Aaron Suine and Nick Stead. Lovers of travel, food and all things delightful, the couple had long harboured the hope of developing their own hospitality venture, and made this a reality in Tasmania in 2019. Kittawa Lodge is an amalgamation of all the wonderful things they had experienced in their own travels, brought together in a bespoke property that is very special indeed.
Kittawa Lodge is the only luxury accommodation with on-site staff on King Island. It currently has two exclusive villas on a secluded 96 acre property, with 750 metres of rugged King Island coastline. The villas are nestled into the wild undulating landscape, with expansive views through the wallaby-filled pastures and dunes to the windswept Southern Ocean just metres away.
Each villa is a beautiful and luxurious retreat. With exteriors of charred timber cladding, the low-slung villas blend seamlessly into their remote environment. Inside, they are full of comfort, impeccable design and thoughtful touches, encouraging guests to relax, unwind and immerse themselves in the beauty of their surroundings. And to enjoy those stunning vistas from every room.
The interiors are divided into three flowing sections. The first is the open plan kitchen, lounge and dining area. The western wall is all windows, with views of the rugged outdoors and the clouds streaming across the sky, while high louvres allow the afternoon sun to warm the grey slate floors. The northern wall is the gourmet kitchen, fully equipped with Smeg appliances, a full array of cooking paraphernalia and a Nespresso machine. There is a pantry full of treats, lovely glassware and cutlery, and divine crockery in blues and greys handmade for Kittawa Lodge. A feature window above the black splashback looks out into the grasses, where wallabies congregate as you cook.
The full-length dining table is bedecked with vases of greenery, while a plush couch with cosy throw blankets surrounds the French-designed fireplace. There are bespoke furnishings, and beautiful original artworks on the walls by local King Island artists. The space is airy, light and contemporary.
From the living area, a feature wall in black wooden slats separates the living room from the bedroom. Here the muted and soothing décor continues, with a vast Australian-made king bed, luxurious linens and indulgent recliner in gentle greens and creams. Another vast west-facing window embraces the view, complete with wallabies in the foreground, and the occasional curious joey that approaches the glass for a closer inspection of what lies within.
Beyond the bedroom is that bathroom, tiled in soft grey, with a waterfall shower and hand-made concrete bath against the floor-to-ceiling glass, providing uninterrupted views of the wild surroundings and the sea beyond. The bath products are divine – the shampoo, conditioner, body wash and bath salts are all blends of native Tasmanian botanicals specially designed for Kittawa Lodge. There is a dual vanity, a heated towel rack and a plethora of fluffy white towels. In a villa made for relaxation and indulgence, the bathroom is its crowning glory.
Kittawa Lodge is entirely off grid, and environmentally sustainable, but no creature comforts are spared. A separately located utilities building ensures electricity, gas and hot water are seamless yet inconspicuous. The kitchen is fully-equipped, with full size fridge, dishwasher and cooking facilities, even including a meat thermometer to ensure your King Island beef and lamb are cooked to perfection. There is Telstra coverage and wi-fi if you need to stay connected, and bluetooth surround sound speakers for music.
The lodge is just a few kilometres south of the 40th parallel, and the winds of the famous roaring forties whip the sea into foam caps and send the clouds streaming across the sky, with sun and shade and squalls in quick succession. But inside Kittawa Lodge, all is snug – the huge picture windows let in all the warmth of the afternoon sun, while the wood burning fireplace keeps the chill at bay as the evening sets in. There are comfy throws on each of the couches, and the bed is made up with luxurious woollen blankets as well as a fluffy doona, for extra cosiness. And if still feeling a little bit chilled, it is the perfect excuse for warming up in a decadent bath.
Kittawa Lodge is also warmed by the generosity and hospitality of its hosts – Nick and Aaron. They are there to welcome us in person on our first day and to wave us off on our departure. There are handwritten notes upon our arrival and each afternoon when we return from adventuring. There are text messages to ensure we are okay before we arrive and after we settle in. There are detailed instructions for the meals that we are cooking ourselves and explanatory notes about the wines and spirits that are available. There are gumboots, waterproof parkas and akubra hats in case we need encouragement to explore the outdoors, as well a picnic rug, thermos, picnic hamper and yoga mats. And the two men are just so delighted to be sharing Kittawa Lodge and King Island with their guests, that their enthusiasm is infectious.
We took advantage of Kittawa Lodge’s Signature Package, which includes breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks daily, with one dinner cooked for us in our dinner by Aaron, and a one-hour massage for two by a local masseuse.
Breakfast is self-catering at your leisure each morning – for a cooked breakfast, there is King Island bacon, locally grown eggs, tomatoes and freshly baked bread, while for a continental spread there is made-for-Kittawa granola, pears poached by Aaron, Tamar Valley yoghurt, Manuka honey and jam. Fresh orange juice and coffee with milk from the King Island Dairy round out the morning spread.
Lunches can be served in the villa or packed as a picnic to take exploring – perhaps a charcuterie plate with King Island Dairy cheese and crusty bread, or a substantial salad of poached chicken, baby spinach, caramelised sweet potato and beets. Upon return to Kittawa Lodge, there are freshly baked cakes or cookies awaiting.
For self-catering dinners, the fridge is stocked with everything you need and detailed instructions are provided. A rolled loin of King Island lamb is seasoned and ready for roasting along with diced pumpkin, carrots and brocollini, followed by blueberry and white chocolate cake with crème anglaise. Or crumbed Tasmanian flathead fish with oven-baked potato wedges and a salad of King Island greens, with a dessert of delicate chocolate pudding. But definitely the highlight is the dinner cooked by Aaron, a multi-course delight of King Island specialties cooked to perfection, with Aaron as an accomplished and engaging host, sharing our love of travel and adventure.
When not cocooned within the luxury and serenity of Kittawa Lodge, King Island is ripe for exploration. The island, marooned in Bass Strait midway between the south coast of Victoria and the north coast of Tasmania, is bigger than anticipated, at 58km long and 21km wide. But it is impossible to get lost, with just a handful of roads crisscrossing the island, linking the small town of Currie with the tiny villages of Grassy and Naracoopa, and the intervening farmlands and sights.
Much of the inland of King Island is given over to pasture. The rolling green hills are impossibly lush and fertile, and home to the prize-winning herds of cattle that have made King Island famous for its meat and dairy produce. No visit to King Island is complete without a visit to the King Island Dairy to taste their highly awarded cheeses. There is also King Island Distillery and King Island Brewhouse that take advantage of the island’s pristine waters and clean air in producing their wares.
The coastline is spectacular – rugged, windswept and pristine. The cold clear waters of Bass Strait are full of lobster and other seafood and the sea air is bracing and fresh. Photogenic lighthouses adorn the shores, while a multitude of nearby shipwrecks pay tribute to the savagery of the Southern Ocean. There are two world-class golf courses tucked into the dunes, where every hole has spectacular views of the beaches, cliffs and sea. And if you can brave the cold, there are legendary surf breaks.
Highlights of the scenery include Cape Wickham and Disappointment Bay in the north, and Surprise Bay, Seal Rocks and the Calcified Forest in the south. There is a historical jetty at Naracoopa and a penguin colony in Grassy Bay.
But in reality, almost every cape and cove on the island are stunning – remote, rugged and full of raw beauty. And almost entirely untouched by tourists… for now.