We are talking as we drive – about holidays, where to go and how to do more of them.  The road is gravel and punctuated by kangaroos in the waning afternoon light.  Suddenly we are at the beach – a carpark, a campervan, a towel-clad couple returning from a swim.  Fortunately we had been warned by our hospitable car rental gentleman – “if you hit the beach, you’ve gone too far”.  We retrace our route.  Shortly we come to the small blue sign pointing us in the right direction – inconspicuous, but obvious enough when one is supposed to be looking specifically for a small blue sign.  We turn off and soon find ourselves at an elaborate entrance gate, incongruous in the scrubby dunes but an emphatic statement – welcome to Southern Ocean Lodge.